I got the tractor to replace a 3010 propane we use on a loader. Hopefully that will not be as complicated since there are not nearly as many wires. After that it is a lighting issue in the fenders. Harness under the floor cover is trash too so if we make the connection in the guages area we will go back to new under the floor. We replaced the front harness over the engine and will attempt to patch into the harness going into the guages area. Pitty both of us but at least I don't have to deal with 24 volt. So many things have been changed, even plug ends from new harness will not match the original ends of the old harness. I have a former mechanic from JD on the payroll and he says "it is going to take a while". Strangely enough most of our 1970 4020 wireing harness is on the shop floor waiting to be replaced. Be sure there is no leakage in that switch, or it can kill batteries or cause a fire. When the keyis turned to the start position, the batteries go into series to shoot 24 to the starter. (one batter is neg ground, the other is positive ground ) both batteries feed the key switch with 12 volts each. Several changes to those wiring harnesses were done over the years, and I am unsure of the latest one that is available. If there is any leakage from one side of the switch to the other, REPLACE IT. Check the key switch and the light switch with a ohm meter on all connections. Probably a new wiring harness from JD would be best. Wiring on those tractors was a big problem. It looks to have jumper wires everywhere that it does'nt need HELP!!!!!!! I mainly need to know how/where to start! The altenator looks to be GM-12volt, It does have the 2 batteries wired for 24volts the starter seems to be orignal, but the selinoid has been changed. I bought a '67 pretty good shape but the wiring is junk. John Deere 4020 Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1
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